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Roman London: Discovering Londinium

London, England’s capital, dates back to the time of the Roman occupation of Britain. The capital keeps its 2000-year history well hidden, and if you didn’t know where to look, it would be easy to think that the modern city had erased all traces of the distant past. But if you begin to investigate, it is possible to discover the clues that help to paint a picture of Roman Londinium. I’ve been on a quest to explore every accessible Roman site and exhibit, and I’m sharing them here so visitors can plan their own Roman London tour.

On this page you’ll find a list of destinations to help you plot out your own quest to discover Londinium. Don’t expect high drama or the Roman Colosseum. The traces here in London are evocative and educational, not mighty and imposing. London’s Roman remains are impressive in the history they reveal and the sense of discovery they offer the explorer, not so much their outward appearance. Going on a hunt to find these mementos of the past can be a great adventure, from discovering the chunk of Roman timber under a church belltower to viewing a wild animal pen under an art gallery.

Once you start looking, Roman Londinium is still present in modern London – baths and amphitheatre included. The City of London, the famous business district known as the Square Mile, is situated directly over the ancient capital city. In some cases, streets and land use still echo former functions, carrying memories through nearly two thousand years of occupation. And there are tantalising glimpses of Londinium for the explorer to find, preserved in museums and hidden underneath modern buildings.

Remains of London’s Roman city wall in an underground car park

I’ve included on this page almost all the visible and visitable traces of Londinium, the Roman walled city, which I’m aware of. Living locally I very much enjoyed re-visiting favourite sites and discovering obscure new ones of which I was unaware. More archaeology is regularly discovered, investigated, revealed and often re-covered – I’ve touched on that too. Read on to plan your own adventure discovering Roman London and some secret spots in the City. I’ve begun with a brief history, followed by a list of places to visit, then tips for planning a Roman London itinerary and even suggestions for convenient places to stay.

Londinium: a brief history

Londinium was a strategic settlement established by the Romans in the years after they invaded Britain in 43 AD. At the lowest feasible bridging point on the River Thames, it became an important port and road hub. After being destroyed in the revolt of the Iceni tribe led by warrior Boudica, the town was rebuilt, with a fort at its north-eastern corner. Londinium reached its peak in importance and size during the 2nd century, as a provincial capital and with a population of several tens of thousands.

A 1920s model of Londinium, on display at the church of All Hallows by the Tower

During the 3rd century Londinium seems to have dwindled, though by this stage it had a defensive wall circling the landward side of the settlement. After the Romans left, the city is thought to have been all but abandoned for several centuries, with a new settlement growing further west, where Covent Garden is today.

The attraction of the old Roman wall for protection, along with buildings which could be re-used, rebuilt or used as quarries for building material, drew a population back again. London grew and grew until the present-day, its Roman buildings buried and hidden under centuries-worth of later buildings. Even the city wall, which was used, restructured and added to up until the 17th century, eventually largely disappeared.

WW2 bombing and more recent demolitions and rebuilding of office blocks led to archaeological discoveries which continue today and keep adding to our knowledge of Roman Britain and Londinium.

Explore Roman London – the sights to visit

Here are the essential destinations for discovering Roman London, along with more obscure sights. Unfortunately for history-lovers, the most important museum for learning about Roman London, the Museum of London (due to rebrand as the London Museum) is closed at the time of writing (due to open 2026). I’ll still write about its collection here. In the meantime, there are still some fascinating historic sites to visit.

Quick visitors’ checklist

Free to see, no booking required: Roman amphitheatre at Guildhall art gallery; sections of the Roman city wall at various locations; All Hallows by the Tower; Roman timber outside St Magnus Martyr; British Museum; grave site by the Gherkin; City Wall at Vine Street;. Check opening times for the museums and churches.

Book ahead: London Mithraeum; Billingsgate Bath House (limited opening); Roman fort gate (occasional tours).

Currently closed/inaccessible: Museum of London; Roman Forum in a hairdressers. Check the links provided for reopening.

Note that visiting/opening details may change, so if you’re planning a tour, please check for the most up-to-date info using the links I’ve provided.

Gladiatorial re-enactment on the site of London’s amphitheatre, back in 2017

Roman amphitheatre – Guildhall Art Gallery

Like most self-respecting Roman towns, Londinium had an amphitheatre where residents would attend games to enjoy gladiatorial combat and displays. This was discovered in the 1980s, underneath the square and art gallery alongside London’s Guildhall. It’s interesting that public buildings like this were built over the foundations and ruins of that earlier public venue; an example of practical re-use which contributes to the continuity you can sometimes trace when overlaying the ancient city with the modern one.

Entrance to the Roman amphitheatre under London

An entrance to the amphitheatre, some of its curving walls and drainage system are preserved under the Guildhall Art Gallery. The site’s well-presented with reconstructions and information. You can imagine the atmosphere facing a gladiator entering the ring, see the grooves where a trapdoor may have allowed wild beasts to enter the combat and admire Roman drainage techniques.

On the level above the ruins is a small display of archaeological finds, including Samian ware decorated with gladiatorial scenes. The gallery houses a permanent collection of art (mostly 19th and 20th century) and sometimes puts on interesting exhibitions, so you may want to allow extra time for this.

Samian pottery featuring gladiatorial scenes

Outside in the Guildhall Yard look out for black lines in the paving. These trace out the shape of the Roman amphitheatre. The handsome white stone church alongside is St Lawrence Jewry; an interesting bit of speculation I’ve heard from an archaeologist is whether the small bricks high in its wall might possibly be re-used Roman bricks.

Visit: Guildhall Art Gallery, Guildhall Yard. Admission is free at the time of writing. Look out for special events and guided tours. https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/attractions-museums-entertainment/londons-roman-amphitheatre

Gladiators assemble on the site of London’s Roman amphitheatre. The church of St Lawrence Jewry has since been transformed by cleaning and restoration

London’s Temple of Mithras

London’s Temple of Mithras, or Mithraeum, is one of the most flashily-presented Roman attractions in town. Impressive finds from this religious site are in the collections of the Museum of London. Rediscovered during during post-war rebuilding, this site was a sensation in the 1950s. Now it lies underneath Bloomberg’s European headquarters. We are in the heart of London’s business quarter and close to more modern ceremonial sites including Mansion House, official home and office of the Lord Mayor.

London’s Mithraeum

The entrance to the London Mithraeum is on Walbrook alongside an entrance to Bank station (separate to the main Bloomberg entrance). Contemporary art inspired by history greets the visitors before you reach a glass wall display of Roman finds from the site. Interactive tablets provide descriptions for each object, plus background information. It’s worth taking the time to study these as there are some interesting exhibits and nuggets of information here which all add to the patchwork of Roman London.

Wall of archaeological exhibits at the London Mithraeum

Downstairs is a space with models of the principal treasures from the site (now in the Museum of London collection), more interactive information and a narrated explanation of Mithraism. From here visitors move into the ruins themselves, open every 15 minutes with a 5-minute light-and-sound show. Spending half your time with the ruins in the dark during this immersive experience won’t necessarily suit all, but it is atmospheric and tries to make the most of the site’s limitations. Low walls, column bases and a glass panel replacing the altar relief of Mithras do give some idea of the original layout.

Visit: London Mithraeum, 12 Walbrook. Free admission; it’s a good idea to book ahead. https://www.londonmithraeum.com/

Billingsgate Bath House

Underneath the drabbest of office blocks on an ugly and busy street opposite the historic former fishmarket of Billingsgate, through an unpromising entrance, is this fantastic archaeological site. It’s only open occasionally but it is worth keeping an eye on special openings and tours.

A 2nd-century AD villa across a street from the river Thames was altered in the 3rd century, perhaps for conversion into an inn. A small bath house was built in the courtyard garden. Discovered in the Victorian era, the ruins of this building have been preserved and investigated over the subsequent years. There’s nothing fancy here; just the ruins, surrounded by sand to absorb the dampness from the Thames seeping through the ground, viewing platforms and cardboard boxes of finds. It’s low-tech and atmospheric.

Roman Bath House

The bath house was rather more like a sauna than a set of pools. It had small hot and warm rooms and a cold room with a bath. You can still see the stone stove which heated the hot room, the tiles from the hypocaust system, and the hollow bricks used to heat the walls.

Visit: Billingsgate Roman House and Baths, Lower Thames Street. Check opening arrangements /book: cityoflondon.gov.uk/bathhouse. Likely to be open April-November on Saturdays; admission fee, advance booking.

London’s Roman city wall

The Roman city wall with its later additions and adaptations can be seen at various points around the old city boundaries. Some stretches were built into or lost under more recent buildings, but have been exposed over the last century by bombing and demolitions. Now preserved, often with viewing areas and information boards, these provide an interesting visual lesson in London’s past. Sometimes the Roman origins have got lost, but in other stretches the lower parts of the wall are still clearly Roman in construction.

The walking route along the line of the city wall still features some handsome information tiles from past enhancement projects, and at Aldgate you’ll also find engraved paving stones. It’s not a bad walk for getting a sense of the ancient and medieval city boundary and for seeing some of the modern City’s variety, but explorers should bear in mind that there are long stretches with no visible traces of wall and the route misses out some of the interesting sites within the Roman town.

City Wall at Vine Street

This is the newest Roman site open to the public, down in the south-east corner of the Roman city. The remains on display here aren’t exclusively Roman; they show evidence of the different eras of development of the site. But you can see a Roman bastion that was part of the defensive city wall along with finds from the area. A video explains the history and archaeological finds are displayed on the walls. It’s all very well presented and an interesting window into London’s past and different stages in the life of the city.

City Wall at Vine Street

The exit leads through an excellent café, Senzo, which occupies the same space and has tables overlooking the Roman wall and exhibition area. It’s a good refreshment stop on a tour of Roman London; I’m a fan of the white hot chocolate and almond pastries.

Visit: 12 Jewry Street. Free. As of my latest visit, booking ahead had ceased to be required, but I’d suggest checking the link below before you visit. If you can’t get inside, you can still get a good view of the wall through large windows at street level on Vine Street or from the mezzanine floor of the adjoining café. https://citywallvinestreet.org/

London Wall and Noble Street

Along the street named London Wall on the southern side of the Barbican Estate you can see several above-ground stretches of wall, though these are mostly medieval and later. The stretch at St Alphage Garden is attractively set-off, though, by gardens with benches to sit and enjoy a break or a picnic. The Barbican Estate alongside is named for its location on the site of the old Roman fort, and its architecture in places pays homage to this history.

Extending south from London Wall , near the corner of the walled city occupied by the Roman fort, Noble Street runs alongside a stretch of post-Roman wall later converted into buildings, then bombed and now left as a picturesque wildflower meadow. But at the southern end of this, near St Anne and St Agnes Church are the low ruins of a corner tower from the 2nd-century Roman fort.

Roman Wall – hidden in a car park

One of the City’s little secrets is a short stretch of the Roman city wall which has been conserved in an underground car park. You’ll see other stretches of wall above ground here, but these were more altered in the medieval era. This corner of Londinium was the location for a big fort against the defensive walls. The architecture and name of the Barbican Estate records this history, as did the former Museum of London building on the corner of the street called, yes, London Wall.

Roman city wall in Bay 52 of the London Wall car park

Visit: This is kind of a creepy place to visit and I’ve not found the best official pedestrian access, although the car park is public, and it has a manned office. I walked up and down an access ramp for cars located on the north side of London Wall, just east of its junction with Wood Street, close to the ruined tower of St Elsyng Spital. Once you’re down in the car park, look for parking bay 52 and you will find the chunky section of wall, unmistakeably Roman. Be really careful of vehicles using the car park.

Roman fort gate – underground ruins

Across the road to the north of Noble Street, close to the old Museum of London site (due for redevelopment) are the remains of a Roman fort gate. This was the west gate to the fort which stood at the north-western corner of Londinium. Constructed in the years leading up to 120AD, the fort was replaced a century later by wall encircling the city, and the gateway remained as an entrance to the city.

Roman fort gate: ruins of turret and guardroom

The gate ruins are preserved inside a a locked subterranean room alongside the London Wall car park next to the Barber-Surgeons’ Gardens. At the time of writing, the site can only be visited occasionally on special tours run by the Museum of London. Once this area is redeveloped (a massive project), I’ve been told the site may be freely accessible to the public.

The low ruins here are pretty slight compared to still-standing gates to the same design in Italy and elsewhere, but if you are picking off the sights of Roman London, this should be on your list. A small model helps visitors to visualise how the gateway would have looked. You can see the base of the turret and guard room which stood to one side of the gate and part of the foundation of a central pier which divided two archways. Points of interest include post holes for the gate, the ‘join’ where the defences were widened when the gateway became part of the new city wall, and several large sandstone blocks used in the rubble base which may previously have been part of a larger and grander building or monument.

Model of the Roman fort gateway

Visit: check for tours and book ahead through the Museum of London https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/event-detail?id=1408

Roman Wall: Cooper’s Row and Tower Hill – a well-preserved stretch in the open

One of the best stretches of city wall is just south of the museum site at Vine Street (described above). Hidden in a couple of yards between Vine Street/Crescent and Cooper’s Row is a long section of wall heading directly to the Tower of London. While the upper parts are from later eras, you can look down below modern ground level and see the brick and ragstone construction dating to the Roman era. It’s an appealing surreal location surrounding by modern buildings including a hotel.

Although you can’t walk along the wall leading to the Tower of London, you can walk around the block to rejoin the wall alongside Tower Hill station. Set into the wall in this touristy spot you’ll find a couple of blocks bearing monumental Latin inscriptions. These are replicas of stone panels from the 1st-century tomb of Gaius Julius Alpinus Classicianus, Procurator of Britain appointed by Nero, dedicated by his wife Julia Pacata Indiana. The tomb was broken up and its pieces re-used in the wall around 300 years later. The originals are now in the British Museum (British Museum, Roman Inscriptions of Britain), incorporated into a reconstruction of the original tomb (photo below).

Trajan by the Roman wall near the Tower of London

Down a flight of steps towards the Tower of London, a 20th-century bronze statue of the Roman Emperor Trajan stands before the wall, practically inviting tourists to strike a pose alongside for their holiday selfies. Of obscure origins, the statue is, at least in part, a cast of an ancient sculpture found in Italy and may have been salvaged from a scrapyard a century ago. It was installed here in 1980.

Roman timber at St Magnus the Martyr

The handsome church of St Magnus the Martyr once stood at the northern end of the older London Bridge. The church is worth visiting in itself, but those on a Roman pilgrimage will be interested in an ancient length of timber standing under its belltower, outside the entrance door of the church. This has been identified as a piece of wood from the Roman bridge or from a Roman wharf nearby.

Roman timber, St Magnus the Martyr

All Hallows by the Tower

An unexpected window into Roman London, this church on the City side of the Tower of London is, like many other of the older buildings around here, built on ancient foundations. Severely damaged in WW2 bombing, it was rebuilt. I spent years in London without realising how fascinating this church is and how much there is to see within. In its Crypt Museum, along with curious exhibits from many eras, you can see a section of Roman floor from a house that once stood here.

Roman flooring displayed in All Hallows by the Tower’s Crypt Museum

The stairs to the crypt descend into the atmospheric exhibition space, where one of the first things you see is the stretch of Roman flooring. The stretch of buckled terracotta tessserae dates to a dwelling built here at the end of the second century AD. Visitors cross a relaid section of tessellated flooring to reach the rest of the crypt museum.

Other Roman exhibits here include casts of gravestones found in the City. During the closure of the London Museum, this is one of the best places to see artefacts from Londinium, with a large display case containing fragments of sculpture, pottery, styli, a key, part of a tombstone depicting a couple with a Greek inscription (there’s a theory this came from a post-Grand Tour imported aristocratic collection rather than originating in Londinium) and even small fragments of decorative painted plaster from a long-ago elegant home.

Tombstone and other exhibits in All Hallows by the Tower

A model of Roman London (photo near top of this page) gives a good overview of the ancient city. The model was created in the 1930s, with the Mithraeum and barracks added later after they were discovered. Knowledge of Roman London has increased since then, including the location of the Amphitheatre, but still this is a helpful impression of Londinium.

There are fascinating post-Roman exhibits and curiosities here too, thanks to the long history of the church’s site. I’m concentrating on the Roman finds in this article, but it is really worth spending time on the rest of the museum. One of the most evocative sights is a ‘stalactite’ of lead which melted from the roof when the church was bombed in WW2.

Entrance is free, but do consider a donation for upkeep. https://ahbtt.org.uk/

Roman Forum and Londinium’s Basilica – underneath a hairdresser

Update: since researching this article, the hair salon has closed down and it’s unclear what the future holds for the premises.

London’s large Forum was situated on the same spot where you’ll find Leadenhall Market today – another example of continuity through the ages. Various parts of the forum have been investigated in archaeological digs during demolition/construction work over the years, but are now covered again. However, one corner of the base of the public basilica could until recently be seen in the unlikeliest of settings.

In the basement of a hairdressers’ salon, behind a glass wall, you can see a short section of wall. Admittedly, like London’s other Roman ruins, it’s not much in comparison with what you might have seen in other countries nearer the heart of the Roman Empire. But it’s still a fascinating experience that helps to convey the way the Roman city hides beneath our modern one.

On the way through a barbers’ shop for the Forum

Visit: Sadly, awaiting updates. Nicholson & Griffin, 90 Gracechurch Street, at the entrance to Leadenhall Market. Check the opening hours, ask at reception, then descend the steep staircase, past customers having their hair done, to see the ruins in a corner – there’s an information board and signs through the salon. https://www.nicholsonandgriffin.com/

Grave of a young Roman woman

During the construction of the tower at 30, St Mary Axe, better known as the Gherkin, the grave of a Roman girl, or young woman, was discovered. She seems to have been buried away from busier cemetery sites, just outside the city boundary, in the second half of the 4th century. After archaeological study, the remains were reburied with a ceremony.

The long-dead Londoner is commemorated with an inscription on a bench to the east of the Gherkin. A slab bearing a wreath is set in the ground in front of this, presumably covering the reburial site. Although you can’t actually see any Roman objects here, it’s an evocative spot to reflect on the past during a tour of Roman London.

Visit: Open air, open to the public at all times. Bury Street.

Museum of London

Currently closed as its new base at Smithfield is being developed, and due to open in 2026 (fingers crossed!), the museum formerly known as the Museum of London has the best collection of Roman finds from Londinium. The museum was previously housed in a purpose-built space in a corner of the city walls at the Barbican. For some reason, the museum closed its doors before planning permission was even granted for the redevelopment of its current site, and long before the planned opening of the new museum, depriving Londoners and visitors of this important historical collection for several years – a severe loss, especially for children who would have been the right age to engage with history here.

The museum is apparently rebranding as the London Museum. I’d guess this is to attract visitors searching in Google, but given London has many different museums, it seems a shame to lose a name which actually described the museum’s subject matter, at a rebranding cost that must be astronomical.

My personal opinions aside, the museum has many treasures in its collection, all of which will hopefully be displayed to great effect in the new spaces. There had recently been an emphasis on visitor numbers rather than visitor experience, and a dumbing down of labelling and displays, but however the new spaces are presented, it will again be an essential stop for understanding and appreciating London’s Roman (and later) history. Once the new-name new-look museum is open, I’d recommend making this a first or last stop on your Londinium tour.

British Museum

While much of the wealth of finds from Roman London is in the Museum of London’s collection, the British Museum also has a few star exhibits from Roman Britain, including London finds. These include the 3rd-century AD Bank of England Mosaic, found under the Bank of England in the heart of the City of London and a bronze head of Hadrian found in the Thames, which may have originally been displayed in honour of the emperor’s visit to Britain in 122 AD.

Bronze head of Hadrian found in the river Thames near London Bridge

Head to Room 49 (upper floor) for the museum’s Roman Britain collection: objects found in London are spread through this large room. On the walls are two important mosaic finds: the Leadenhall Street Mosaic, a small circular mosaic featuring Bacchus riding a tiger, oddly smooth and shiny thanks to Victorian restoration, and the square Bank of England mosaic.

Bank of England mosaic (British Museum)

The tomb of Gaius Julius Alpinus Classicianus has been reconstructed here, with the pieces which were discovered after being reused in the Roman city wall (you may have seen replicas replacing these if you’ve toured the wall, as described above). Another tombstone from Tower Hill commemorates Aulus Alfidius Olussa, from Athens, who died in Londinium aged 70.

Reconstruction of the tomb of Gaius Julius Alpinus Classicianus (British Museum)

Other finds to look out for include a stone cult statue of Atys, in Phrygian cap and cloak, and statuettes given back by the Thames, including a hermaphrodite holding a mirror, and an elegant Apollo. A bronze tap decorated with a wolf’s head was found in Philpot Lane in the City, and may have come from a public fountain. A limestone sarcophagus from the 4th century was found in Haydon Square, just outside the city gate at Aldgate, and contained a young boy’s skeleton in a lead coffin.

Visit: https://www.britishmuseum.org/

Planning a City of London Roman itinerary

While the Museum of London is closed, I’d suggest starting at London Wall, along the northern limit of the ancient city. The Moorgate exit of the Elizabeth line’s Liverpool Street station is very close by, as is Moorgate station. Barbican, St Paul’s, Farringdon (Elizabeth Line – Barbican exit) and Bank are the next nearest stations. Take a look at the chunks of wall above ground at various points along London Wall, heading down into the car park to see the ‘secret’ section in Bay 52. Take in the ruins in Noble Street.

Next head to the Guildhall Art Gallery to visit the Amphitheatre. From here head south to the Mithraeum, then east to the Forum at Leadenhall Market. If the Billingsgate Bath House is open and you’ve booked a visit, head there next if that fits timing-wise. Otherwise, skip that site and head east to Vine Street and see the Roman wall remains there and further south at Cooper’s Row and Tower Hill. Head back past the Gherkin and the Tomb of the Unknown Girl towards Liverpool Street station, or wherever you wish to finish your exploration.

This route takes you past or close to many of the varied sights of the City of London, so although the physical evidence of Roman London is scanty, your exploration will also provide an interesting tour of the above-ground City.

Hot chocolate and almond croissant with Roman wall views at Senzo (Vine Street)

Once the Museum of London/London Museum has reopened at its new Smithfield base, on the edge of the City, I’d suggest either starting or ending your itinerary here. Allow plenty of time, especially if you’ll be touring the whole museum and not just the Roman exhibits.

The British Museum is further from the City, and if you’re a history-lover in London, I’m sure you’ll be visiting it during your stay anyway, so I’ve not included it in this one-day itinerary.

Other locations and opportunities

When London’s older buildings are pulled down and the sites are rebuilt, developers are required to call in archaeologists to investigate before building work goes ahead. As there has been a high turnover of buildings in central London in the last couple of hundred years, amplified by rebuilding after WW2 bombing, many Roman discoveries have been made this way.

Roman London is around 6-7 metres below the surface of the modern city. Although most sites are covered over after investigation, archaeological evidence is removed for conservation along with important information, which adds to the knowledge of Londinium. Sometimes mosaics or ruins are preserved in situ, like a few of those listed above.

News articles and public announcements provide updates on the latest discoveries and any opportunities to see more traces of the ancient town. At the time of writing a recently-discovered mosaic is due to be incorporated into a new building project at Bankside, south of the Thames. More sites and news articles are below.

Archaeologists uncover many of the clues to London’s past. But others are found by London’s licenced mudlarks, who work along the shores of the tidal Thames. These women and men, often self-taught experts, find objects from all eras of London’s history, including the Roman age. Occasionally there is a chance to see displays of their discoveries, including Samian ware and Roman footwear.

You can follow mudlarks on social media, read their books and look out for exhibitions. At the time of writing there’s an ongoing exhibition at Southwark Cathedral, as well as various pop-up exhibitions programmed through the year.

Bankside mosaic and mausoleum

This 2022-2023 discovery south of the river Thames gives an idea of the scale of Londinum at its peak. There are plans for this site to be publicly accessible once construction of the Liberty of Southwark project is completed.

Mosaic at 11 Ironmonger Lane – There’s a Roman mosaic under this office building near the Guildhall, on the site of a house which would have stood near a couple of temples and the amphitheatre. Currently not accessible to the public: Flickr photo (2013)

Roman baths at Huggin Hill – Londinium’s largest public baths that have been found are located close to St Paul’s and the river. After excavation they were covered up again and are underneath modern buildings. Various old stretches of wall can be seen in the secretive little park Cleary Garden – none of these look as though they date back to the Roman era, though. The park’s design remembers its Roman and medieval past, evoking colonnades and vineyards.

News articles and discoveries

Cemetery excavation near Holborn Viaduct: https://mola-newsroom.prgloo.com/news/first-complete-roman-funerary-bed-among-extraordinary-new-archaeological-discoveries-in-central-london (2024)

Further reading on Roman London

Here are some suggestions for learning more about Roman London, with affiliate links to purchase from Amazon.co.uk while supporting this website.

Guided walks

If you’d prefer to discover Roman London in the company of a knowledgeable tour guide, the official City of London guides offer a range of walking tours including one with a Roman London theme. City of London Guides

Stay in Londinium

The City of London and its fringes isn’t one of London’s traditional tourist lodging areas, but it’s a convenient base for exploring central London, travelling to and from airports – and of course it’s ideal for touring the site of the ancient city. There’s a cluster of modern tourist hotels north of the Tower of London; others are aimed more at business travellers and scattered through the area. The links below are affiliate links and using these will mean you are supporting this website without paying any extra.

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Ranger’s House, Greenwich

The Ranger’s House in Greenwich has achieved recent celebrity with its role in hit Netflix drama Bridgerton, where the building’s exterior plays the part of ‘Bridgerton House’, home of the fictional Bridgerton family, transported to a CGI version of Grosvenor Square in central London, in 1813. In reality this 18th-century mansion is located on a green hill outside Greenwich in south-east London, and houses a small and quirky art collection.

Greenwich is one of the best destinations for a varied London day out, but of the crowds who visit the big attractions near the Thames, few head up the hill to this more hidden treasure. Built to take advantage of the green surroundings and impressive views, the brick Ranger’s House was first home to a naval captain, and later to Lord Chesterfield before becoming the residence of the Ranger of Greenwich Park – an honorary position awarded by the monarch. The first Ranger to live in this building was Princess Sophia Matilda, a niece of George III. The previous residence, standing alongside, was demolished but had been home to Queen Caroline – read on for how to see a surprising relic of this dwelling.

Nowadays the Ranger’s House is in the hands of English Heritage and houses a long-term loan: a collection of art assembled by the diamond magnate and collector Sir Julius Wernher (1850-1912). The Wernhers had no connection to this building, but the mansion’s interior has been arranged to evoke the grand rooms of their homes, Bath House, Piccadilly and Luton Hoo in Bedfordshire. There are some fine artworks, and some unusual curiosities to admire; Wernher said his passion was for the ‘splendidly ugly’. The Ranger’s House is worth the uphill walk from central Greenwich to visit, can be combined with a roam through the fabulous parkland and is free to English Heritage members, so it’s a great place to visit for many reasons, not least if you are on a budget staycation.

I visited while Covid precautionary measures were in place; booking ahead the evening before (plenty of slots available). Detailed catalogues for each room had been removed for hygiene reasons, replaced by a QR code to access a webpage with room information and highlighted objects. Guides were on hand to help identify the many fascinating exhibits not included in the online companion. Photography isn’t allowed, though guidebooks and free postcards were available from the small shop (along with fudge, fruit wine and other treats).

With the collection encompassing artworks from tiny jewels to marble sculptures, there is a lot of variety to take in, but the collection is small enough to be manageable and enjoyable, rather than overwhelming.

Paintings

One of the collection’s most celebrated pieces is a painting from the workshop of Botticelli, a version of the elegant Madonna of the Pomegranate, but my favourites were two other Italian Renaissance paintings, unlabelled but identified for me by the friendly guides: Rest on the Flight into Egypt by Filippino Lippi, with its lovely background details, and a Madonna with Saints, listed as by a follower of Il Francia. I haven’t managed to find out much about the latter painting, though in the past it appears to have been attributed to Francesco Francia himself. (I first discovered the works of this artist, real name Francesco Raibolini, c.1447-1517, in the Pinacoteca Nazionale in Bologna, where his paintings and the faces in them really stood out for me). I regret not being able to photograph or find a good reproduction of this painting; in which I particularly admired one of the saints – I think identifiable as St Nicholas.

Memento Mori

One of Sir Julius’s special interests was evidently the memento mori. There are a number of these reminders of death and mortality on display here, including a tiny intricately-carved boxwood coffin which can be opened to reveal panels depicting the Last Judgement, a decomposing corpse and a skeleton. Another exquisitely crafted memento mori is a two-sided ivory pendant: one one side, a well-dressed woman, on the other side a rotting skull covered with scavenging creepy-crawlies, and the words ECCE FINE (Here is the End) on the forehead.

Jewels, ceramics and more

Another of my highlights of the Ranger’s House Wernher Collection was the Jewellery Vault, filled with exquisite rings, cameos and seals, mostly Renaissance but also featuring the oldest object in the museum, a Greek Hellenistic gold earring depicting Nike, her wings aloft, dated to the 2nd Century BC.

The collection of ceramics is also very fine, including some handsome Italian Renaissance maiolica, and a magnificent dish from France with a moulded eel slithering across its surface.

Grand reception rooms on the lower floor are decorated in keeping with the homes of the Wernhers where they were once displayed. Paintings include fine portraits by Joshua Reynolds.

The walls of the elegant Long Gallery are hung with historic tapestries and the room’s focal point is the seductive (or sickly-sweet, depending on your tastes) 19th-century marble sculpture titled The Love of Angels, by Giulio Bergonzoli.

Outside the Ranger’s House: rose garden and ruins

The Ranger’s House now has a rather downbeat vista looking over lawns and a main road. If you’re a Bridgerton fan, of course, you will want to take the obligatory selfies at the front of the house. But afterwards, head through a small gateway in the garden at the side of the building, and you’ll find yourself in a far more romantic environment, the beautiful rose garden of Greenwich Park. When I visited, some of the beds were filled with wild flowers and between these colourful displays, alive with insects, and the luxuriant blooming roses, the garden was a wonderful setting to sit and admire the mansion, think about the art, or just plan your next move. Greenwich Park, one of London’s Royal Parks, is a remarkable, beautiful place to explore, and I’ll write about its riches another time.

Before you head away from the Ranger’s House, though, just walk for a few yards away from the rose garden along the park’s inner perimeter to the south (to your left as you look at the rear of the house). Here, by a hedge and against a wall, is a surviving feature from Montague (or Montagu) House, once home to Princess Caroline, later Queen Caroline, estranged wife of the future George IV. Princess Caroline’s Bath is exactly what it says it is: a sunken tiled bath, all that is left of the building demolished in 1815.

How to get to the Ranger’s House in Greenwich

From Greenwich’s ‘main attractions’ near the Thames and the Cutty Sark DLR station, Ranger’s House is a 10-15-minute walk uphill through the park, a very pleasant, green and scenic stroll. It’s located on the park’s western boundary (head towards the right-hand perimeter as you head up the slopes).

The entrance to the house faces away from the park, on a lane called Chesterfield Walk. But from the rose garden within the park you can reach the entrance by following English Heritage signs through the small gateway in the garden wall. Alternatively, there is a gateway from the park out towards Chesterfield Walk a little way north of the house, called Croom’s Hill Gate, a route which passes some other handsome buildings. A printable map of the park is available on the Royal Parks website (see below), and this is a useful tool to take to help make the most of your visit.

I actually walked to Greenwich from central London, which is entirely do-able – allow 2.5 – 3 hours from the City of London, and enjoy a scenic hike along the Thames, or cut some time off with shortcuts by road.

If you’d rather not walk, and would like to avoid the uphill stretch from central Greenwich, there are limited parking spaces at the house (check the English Heritage website), and it is on bus route 53, which passes Deptford Bridge station (DLR) as well as the 386, which passes Greenwich station and the National Maritime Museum.

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London

London tourist attractions

Samuel Johnson famously wrote “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford,” but to the visitor this huge city can seem a daunting grey jungle. Where should they begin?

London is not a city whose charms are all on show, presented in a tidy package to the tourist. Amid the imposing, noisy, confusing bustle, it is no wonder that many opt for an easy tourist trail of expensive attractions. Tussaud’s, the London Dungeon, the London Eye, the Tower of London are all musts for many visitors. But if you are on a budget, or if you wish to see some of London’s other faces, here are some suggestions:

London Buses

For travelling around London, the tube is quick – study the maps closely as there are more than ten lines. But I’d recommend taking the bus wherever possible. It’s a very cheap option, and there’s nothing like the view of London you get from the upper deck of a traditional red double-decker bus.

For sightseeing, the number 38 is an excellent route. Departing from Victoria Station, it passes Buckingham Palace gardens (from the top deck you can see over the high wall to the royal lawns and tennis courts), heads along Piccadilly, across Piccadilly Circus and cuts across Soho along Shaftesbury Avenue, lined with theatres. Then it turns left up Charing Cross Road, famous for its secondhand bookshops. A glance to the left will show you hectic Oxford Street, before the bus takes a right towards Holborn. Further along the route you pass Sadlers Wells Theatre and classy Islington, where you can eat, drink and entertain yourselves (unless you want a glimpse of London’s more deprived areas, in which case you should stay on the bus until its final destination, the debt-ridden borough of Hackney).

Museum of London

This excellent free museum is in the strange Barbican complex, built by architects dreaming of an urban renaissance. Like a city in a sci-fi novel, this area is composed of high walkways, residential tower blocks and peaceful lakes, fountains and gardens. There is also a theatre, where the Royal Shakespeare company perform in the winter, a concert hall and some good restaurants and cafes to suit all budgets. The museum itself provides a marvellous overview of London, from prehistory to the present day, with fascinating temporary exhibitions as well as a good permanent collection. Here you can walk along a recreated Victorian Street, or admire marble sculptures from a Roman Temple of Mithras.

London Markets

London has a large variety of markets, and a trip to one of these is a real chance to see the city at its vibrant, living best. Most-visited is probably the famous (and touristy) market and piazza of Covent Garden, but there are many more in the centre, or a short tube ride away. Portobello Road Market in expensive Notting Hill has a wide range of stalls selling antiques, vintage clothes, records and much more, and offers good opportunities to view the smart set.

Early on a Sunday morning, the highlight is Columbia Road flower market in East London (Bethnal Green). The flower stalls provide a welcome splash of brightness in the heart of the city, and the cockney stallholders shouting incomprehensible descriptions of their wares supply a different kind of colour. Meanwhile a mixture of trendy young things and East Enders wander up and down the narrow road, or break for refreshments in the pub or a cafe.

After the flower market, experience more of the unique mixture of cultures composing the area by a visit to Brick Lane and Spitalfields Market. On a standard Sunday along crowded Brick Lane you could view art installations in warehouse space, eat vegetarian or ethnic food at a stall, hear a ragtime street pianist, pick up some wonderful cheap fabric from a sari shop or a bargain antique piece of furniture (if you have room in your suitcase).

A bus ride away in North London is the crowded alternative commercial heaven, Camden Market. Hugely popular (with pickpockets too – watch your wallet), this is a good place to buy unusual gifts (fake black roses from a Gothic Emporium?) and clubbing or vintage gear.

The City of London

The City is the oldest part of London, and nowadays is the financial heart of the UK. Packed with rushing commuters from Monday to Friday, the area is eerily deserted at the weekend. These ancient winding streets contain many gems. Historic squares and buildings stand cheek by jowl with the most gleaming of modern architecture. Highlights include the medieval Guildhall and the 202-foot-high Monument, built as a reminder of the Great Fire. St Paul’s is one of the finest sights the City offers, a gigantic testament to the aspirations of past Londoners.

The River Thames & the South Bank

Historically the great tidal river was London’s hub. Nowadays it is sadly underused, but its banks offer a sustantial leisure resource. St Katharine’s Dock, next to Tower Bridge, is an intriguing mixture of historic dock and luxury marina. There are often interesting historic vessels to view, free entertainment, and good pizzas in the picturesque Dickens Inn. It’s a good place from which to watch Tower Bridge open, too. This happens surprisingly often, when high-masted vessels pass up or down the Thames, and you can check when it’s due to take place by calling 020 7378 7700.

Crossing the river and walking westwards along the South Bank you’ll find a pleasant relaxing atmosphere and some nice restaurants and pubs with river views. There are often small festivals or outdoor entertainments, some tourist attractions, and the soon-to-be redeveloped South Bank Centre, a major cultural complex. Underneath Waterloo Bridge you’ll find second hand book stalls, and the intellectual haven of the National Film Theatre. Don’t be put off by the serious-looking young men; the Film Cafe (with outdoors tables) is a pleasant place to take a break, and the cakes are fantastic.

The next best thing to the London Eye (and free) is the viewing platform at the Oxo Building, also on the South Bank, close to Blackfriars Bridge. Take the lift to the top floor and don’t be daunted by the restaurant (excellent for a meal with a view), the open air viewing platform above the river is open to the public.

Get to the heart of London in three days with our sightseeing suggestions, and experience the city’s diversity: Three days in London

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London

Three days in London

Experiencing London

For those who want to understand the gigantic, sprawling organism that is London, here are some suggestions, arranged into a busy three-day itinerary. Rather than the big sights besieged by tourists, we’ve concentrated on insiders’ tips – places that will give you a feel for the real city. To travel around the city, see our tips on the Tourist Attractions page, and try to take the bus wherever possible – you’ll see much more.

Friday

If you’re up and about early, take a look at the morning rush hour to get an insight into the workings of the city. Between 7:30 and 9:30, the majority of London’s residents will be crowded onto buses and the tube , making their daily trek in from the residential areas outside Zone 1. Good places to take a look at the commuting phenomen are mainline rail stations, particularly Liverpool Street in the City, London’s financial heartland. But take care not to cause an obstruction: commuters don’t take kindly to delays.

Friday would be a good day to visit some of the big attractions on your personal checklist. This is a good time to acquire a little historical perspective?, by heading to Westminster to see the historical sites where so much of Britain’s history has been decided. You might want to take the time now to visit the Houses of Parliament, have a look at Big Ben, and survey the splendours of Westminster Abbey. This shouldn’t take too long, and you can then head towards Buckingham Palace, and enjoy a picnic in St. James’s Park, along with the office-workers and the ducks.

If you’re seriously interested in London’s history, it’s a good idea to pay a visit to the excellent Museum of London early on in your stay (you’ll need to take the tube or a bus across town). This free museum is in the strange Barbican complex, built by architects dreaming of an urban renaissance. Like a city in a sci-fi novel, this area is composed of high walkways, residential tower blocks and peaceful lakes, fountains and gardens. There is also a theatre, where the Royal Shakespeare company perform in the winter, a concert hall and some good restaurants and cafes to suit all budgets. The museum itself provides a marvellous overview of London, from prehistory to the present day, with fascinating temporary exhibitions as well as a good permanent collection. Here you can walk along a recreated Victorian Street, or admire marble sculptures from a Roman Temple of Mithras.

If you prefer more glamorous attractions, however, stay in the West End, and pay a visit to Buckingham Palace. Or for something more exciting (especially if you have children with you), you could take a boat trip on the Thames.

If you still have energy left, you could take a stroll around the famous market and piazza of Covent Garden, resting at one of the many cafes. Or the really determined could go for a hectic high-street shopping experience along Oxford Street.

For an evening on the tiles, try a trip to a popular and fashionable area such as Islington, Camden (alternative, live music and clubs) or Shoreditch (painfully hip restaurants and trendy bars and clubs).

Saturday

Start the day off with a trip to well-heeled West London, and pay a visit to the famous Portobello Road Market. There’s a wide range of stalls selling antiques, vintage clothes, records and much more, but a large part of the appeal is the atmosphere and the setting among the elegant – and wildly expensive – town houses of Notting Hill.

Busy shopping areas can be hellish on a Saturday, so I’d recommend staying well away from Oxford Street. Why not get away from the crowds by visiting a museum or watching a matinee performance at one of London’s many theatres?

London offers world-class museums and attractions to suit all interests, and most of them are free. High on the list of priorities is the British Museum, which contains an awe-inspiring array of treasures from around the world, including the famous Elgin Marbles. Whatever your political take on this, the exhibitions are well-presented and definitely worth seeing. Plus, the main displays are free and the museum has a good cafe.

If you prefer to sit in a plush seat and be entertained, London is the place to do it. Cultural events are one of the city’s prime attractions, and a look at the listings (buy Time Out magazine) will present you with a wide selection of plays, musicals, ballets and operas. Try to get a ticket in advance if you can, to ensure a good seat (most theatres and booking agencies will let you book online), but there are often tickets available on the day. Most theatres have an afternoon performance on Saturdays, and often seats will be cheaper and easier to come by than for evening shows.

The reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe, on the South Bank will give you a true insight into London’s play-going past. It’s a great experience, but do check what type of ticket you get, as ‘groundlings’ will have to stand in the open for the whole performance. The performance season runs from May – September (Twelfth Night and A Midsummer Night’s Dream are this years big plays), but the guided tours are available all year round.

On a Saturday evening, the heart of London is the place to be. Head for Soho or Covent Garden, enjoy a restaurant meal and then end the evening at a theatre, bar or nightclub, or simply enjoying the hugely intense buzz that is Soho at night. Packed with drunken young (and older) people on their week’s ‘big night out’, the area is chaotic, but fairly safe. Stay alert, don’ t carry huge amounts of money, and never take one of the unlicensed mini cabs that prowl the streets. Black cabs can be hard to come by, but waiting to hail one of these, or using one of the city’s decent nightbuses, is by far the best option.

Check Time Out to decide your evening’s activity, as London has a wealth of excellent possibilities, but most are geared for specific tastes and you want to make sure you get the most from your night. There are too many diverse nightclubs to recommend one or two, but a glance at Time Out’s listings will help you avoid the expensive tourist traps.

Sunday

For a taste of ‘authentic’ London, get up bright and early and head to Columbia Road flower market in East London (Bethnal Green). The flower stalls provide a welcome splash of brightness in the heart of the city, and the cockney stallholders shouting incomprehensible descriptions of their wares supply a different kind of colour. Meanwhile a mixture of trendy young things and East Enders wander up and down the narrow road, or break for refreshments in the pub or a cafe.

The East End is a traditionally working class area, notorious for crimes by Jack the Ripper and gangs like the Krays. Despite the recent trendiness of ‘mockney’ films feting this violent aspect, the area, while still poor, has recently gained in respectability as fashionable young professionals move in. The areas close to the city, around Brick Lane, Whitechapel, and most of all Shoreditch and Hoxton, have become immensely fashionable with an arty young set, with studio spaces fetching inordinately high prices. After the flower market, experience more of the unique mixture of cultures composing the area by a visit to Brick Lane and Spitalfields Market. On a standard Sunday down crowded Brick Lane you could view art installations in warhouse space, eat vegetarian or ethnic food at a stall, hear a ragtime street pianist, pick up some wonderful cheap fabric from sari shop or a bargain antique piece of furniture (if you have room in your suitcase).

From Spitalfields (where the market is now sadly damaged by development), take a wander through the City of London. Eerily deserted at the weekend, these ancient winding streets contain many gems. Historic squares and buildings stand cheek by jowl with the most gleaming of modern architecture. Highlights include the medieval Guildhall and the 202-foot-high Monument, built as a reminder of the Great Fire. St Paul’s is one of the finest sights the City offers, a gigantic testament to the aspirations of past Londoners.

What many modern Londoners do on their day of rest is take a walk along the river. St Katharine’s Dock, next to Tower Bridge, is an intriguing mixture of historic dock and luxury marina. There are often interesting historic vessels to view, free entertainment, and good pizzas in the picturesque Dickens Inn. It’s a good place from which to watch Tower Bridge open, too. This happens surprisingly often, when high-masted vessels pass up or down the Thames, and you can check when it’s due to take place by calling 020 7378 7700 . The Tower of London is also alongside the bridge, where, if you can afford the entrance fees, you can see the Crown Jewels and take a step closer to the more murky bits of London’s past, viewing Traitors Gate, through which those accused of treason, like Ann Boleyn, passed towards their deaths.

Crossing the river and walking westwards along the South Bank you’ll find a pleasant relaxing atmosphere and some nice restaurants and pubs with river views. There are often small festivals or outdoor entertainments, some tourist attractions, and the soon-to-be redeveloped South Bank Centre, a major cultural complex. Undeneath Waterloo Bridge you’ll find second hand book stalls, and the intellectual haven of the National Film Theatre. Don’t be put off by the serious-looking young men; the Film Cafe (with outdoors tables) is a pleasant place to take a break, and the cakes are fantastic.

Now would be a good time to put all you have learned and experienced into a visual context. Still on the South Bank, between Westminster and Hungerford bridges, you’ll find the famous London Eye. It’s an expensive ride, but offers an unmatchable panorama of the city (and excellent photo-opportunities). If you’re really on a budget, the next best thing is the viewing platform at the Oxo Building, also on the South Bank, close to Blackfriars Bridge. Take the lift to the top floor and don’t be daunted by the restaurant (excellent for a meal with a view), the open air viewing platform above the river is open to the public.

If you’re feeling tired after pounding the city’s streets, a more relaxing afternoon can be enjoyed in the open air in Primrose Hill (Chalk Farm tube). A beautiful and exclusive residential area, Primrose Hill also boasts one of London’s most pleasant vistas. Primrose Hill itself is a grassy park rising above Camden, where you can lie back, enjoy a picnic and admire the city spread out before you, from the tall towers of Canary Wharf to the graceful white London Eye.

If you’re feeling more adventurous, the crowded alternative commercial heaven that is Camden Market is a short walk away. Hugely popular (with pickpockets too – watch your wallet), this is a good place to buy unusual gifts (fake black roses from a Gothic Emporium?) and clubbing or vintage gear.

If all you want to do is chill out, check Time Out’s music listings and head for one of London’s many pubs offering live music. Enjoy the warm atmosphere and a traditional point, and rest comfortably in the awareness that you have discovered many of the diverse pleasures of London. No longer a disorientating jungle, perhaps you’ll begin to appreciate Johnsons’s words and wonder how anyone could tire of such a vibrant city.

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London

Where to stay in London

Since the central area of the city is extremely large, it’s a good idea to think carefully about where to stay in London. You should consider your sightseeing and travelling priorities and the sort of atmosphere you prefer, as well as the obvious budget considerations. Most of the centre is reasonably safe, but note that streets very close to major train stations – particularly King’s Cross – can be seedy at night.

In terms of public transport, London is composed of concentric circles: Zone 1 being the central area, Zone 2 encompassing areas just outside the centre like Camden, and Zones 3-6, although containing several interesting sights, being too far removed for normal tourist accommodation. You will save a lot of time and money on public transport if you stay centrally.

Within the central zone, London’s hotels and B&Bs are not spread evenly, but are concentrated in particular areas. Here is our run-down of some of the principal and most convenient hotel areas, along with links for finding and booking accommodation.

Paddington and Bayswater

The Paddington area, around the station of the same name, is convenient for those travelling to or from Heathrow (using the speedy Heathrow Express) or the west of England (trains depart from Paddington for Bath, Oxford, the Cotswolds, Devon and Cornwall). The area is well-connected for the bus and the tube. Although there is little to see on foot in the immediate vicinity of the station, a few minutes on the bus will bring you to Marble Arch, Oxford Street and the rest of London’s sights. Paddington is a good area for finding affordable accommodation, although hotels here are rarely glamorous.

Bayswater is to the west of Paddington, and is a faded residential area filled with cheaper hotels. Many of these are rather shabby, but your money will go further if you stay around here.

> Paddington hotels
> Bayswater hotels

West End – Soho and Bloomsbury – Holborn and Covent Garden

This area stretching across the centre of London, west to east, is the city’s heart. Hotels tend to be expensive; some of them are in the luxury price bracket. It’s not such a convenient area for travelling outside London, but for seeing the city itself it’s ideal. You should be prepared for noise and crowds.

Mayfair, the area bordered by Regent Street, Oxford Street, Piccadilly and Park Lane, commands the highest rents on the Monopoly board, and is still an expensive and exclusive neighbourhood. The high-street bustle of Oxford Street gives way to elegant streets lined with designer shops, smart hotels and prohibitively-expensive offices. Hyde Park is a huge green space to the west of Park Lane, and many London tourist attractions are a short walk, or a brief bus-ride away.

Soho and Bloomsbury: Soho, the network of narrow roads south of Oxford Street, is a lively night-time area of restaurants, sleazy red-light establishments, drinking-dens and fashionable nightclubs. It’s not the place to stay if you value a calm atmosphere, but it is very convenient for shopping, theatres and nightlife. By contrast, Bloomsbury, to the east, is one of the quieter areas of central London. Famous for its literary connections, the neighbourhood is home to the British Museum.

Holborn and Covent Garden – This area, bordered by King’s Cross, the Thames and Farringdon Road, lies between Theatreland and the City of London (the business centre), and includes the popular markets and shops of Covent Garden.

> Mayfair hotels
> Soho and Bloomsbury hotels
> Holborn and Covent Garden hotels

South Kensington and Chelsea

South Kensington – This is a good, quieter area to stay in, with plenty of hotels for those who prefer a more restrained atmosphere or want to spend a lot of time in the museums nearby. Included in this area are the King’s Road, Chelsea, the Royal Albert Hall, the V&A and the Natural History Museum.

> South Kensington hotels

Victoria Station and Pimlico

Between Westminster and Chelsea, the Victoria Station and Pimlico area is not particularly attractive or appealing, but it’s a fairly practical location, especially for the budget traveller. There are some cheap hotel and B&B accommodation options, and it’s only a short distance from more interesting places, such as Buckingham Palace and Westminster. Coaches from Victoria Coach Station serve destinations all over the UK (including airports), and trains from the railway station run to Gatwick, Brighton and other southern destinations.

> Victoria Station and Pimlico hotels

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London

London History

London History

 

For most of its history, London was the most important city in Britain (and, many Londoners would maintain, in the world). With a fortunate location in terms of trade and climate, it thrived as a Roman settlement (despite being burned by Boadicea), and grew into a substantial town, with temples, luxury villas and a forum within defensive walls.

When the Romans pulled their troops out of Britain, much of their city fell into decay. Less is known about London in the Dark Ages, but it seems that the principal inhabitated area moved westwards, towards what is now the Strand.

London’s strategic importance was never totally neglected, however, and kings from Alfred the Great onwards began focussing their attention on the city, and rebuilding some of its defences. By the time of the Norman Conquest, the city was the undisputed seat of power, and it was here by the Thames that William the Conqueror built the fortified Tower of London

Gradually, from its days of semi-abandonment, London emerged to become the legendary bustling city of the Middle Ages, noisy, smelly and above all exciting. From the chaotic City parishes emerged early theatres, printing presses, radical politics, philosophy and literature.

By the time London was rebuilt following the Great Fire of 1666, its growth was unstoppable. In the City itself, new buildings were put up to replace those lost. Although there was much discussion about redesigning the street layout, land ownership caused so many problems that most streets were rebuilt following the medieval plan. Even today the narrow winding streets with evocative names bear witness to the early city.

As the noble and the rich moved to the area west of the City – the air was fresher and the Court was close by – acres of expensive residential development resulted in the great squares and elegant streets of West London. Many of these areas still belong to the aristocratic families who have leased out whole streets for centuries.

On the other side of the City, manufacturing and other trades – including fishing – thrived in the East End. And although the centre of London has always provided a unique melting pot where aristocrats could mix with orange-sellers, and poets with sailors, the divide between East and West can still be seen.

The East End is a traditionally working class area, notorious for crimes by Jack the Ripper and gangs like the Krays. Despite the recent trendiness of ‘mockney’ films feting this violent aspect, the area, while still poor, has recently gained in respectability as fashionable young professionals move in. The areas close to the city, around Brick Lane, Whitechapel, and most of all Shoreditch and Hoxton, have become immensely fashionable with an arty young set, with studio spaces fetching inordinately high prices.

Today legacies of all London’s past eras can be found, along with more recent influences. Consecutive waves of immigration have led to a richly diverse culture, while regeneration initiatives have cleaned up some of the most deprived areas. The high-rise futuristic Docklands area has changed London’s skyline. Like most cities, London still has its problems,but it remains an unmatchable destination, rich in history, architecture, culture and interest.

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London

London

About London

Greater London is home to 7 million people. A city of extremes, it contains some of the UK’s richest and poorest areas. A jumble of ancient and modern, grand and shabby, beautiful and beastly, London is a city that inspires strong reactions. Many love it, some hate it. It’s possible to do both at the same time.

london

For most of its history, London was the most important city in Britain (and, many Londoners would maintain, in the world). With a fortunate location in terms of trade and climate, it thrived as a Roman settlement (despite being burned by Boadicea), and after a spell of semi-abandonment emerged to become the legendary bustling city of the Middle Ages, noisy, smelly and above all exciting. From the narrow winding streets whose layout is still preserved in the City emerged early theatres, printing presses, radical politics, philosophy and literature. By the time London was rebuilt following the Great Fire of 1666, its growth was unstoppable. Acres of expensive residential development resulted in the great squares and elegant streets west of the City. Manufacturing and other trades – including fishing – thrived in the East End. London was always a unique melting pot where aristocrats could mix with orange-sellers, and poets with sailors.

Today legacies of all London’s past eras can be found in the modern city, along with more recent influences. Consecutive waves of immigration have led to a richly diverse culture, while regeneration initiatives have cleaned up some of the most deprived areas. The high-rise futuristic Docklands area has changed London’s skyline. Like most cities, London still has its problems, but it remains an unmatchable destination, rich in history, architecture, culture and interest.

When to go

London is an all-year-round city. The winter can be cold and grey, and the summer can be sweltering and smoggy, but unpredictability is the key feature of London weather, so don’t count on anything. Late spring or early summer (May-June) will give you the best chance of seeing London looking its most appealing in the mild sunshine, and you may avoid the worst tourist excesses.

Location

Located in the south-east of England, London has excellent links with the rest of the UK by rail, air and coach. It is also a major international transport hub, and has easy connections to Europe – including via Eurostar train direct to Paris – and the rest of the world.

How to get to London

London’s principal airports are Heathrow, Gatwick and Stansted. All offer easy rail or bus connections into the centre. From Heathrow the cheapest option is the regular underground service, but the Heathrow Express, which runs to Paddington Station, is very fast and comfortable. Gatwick also has an Express train service to Victoria Station. From Stansted there is a train known as the Stansted Express, but be prepared for a slow journey to Liverpool Street Station.

London must-see tourist attractions

London is a vast city, and is so rich in famous and evocative sights that a short-term visitor needs to be selective in their choice of activities.

Among the must-sees for most first-time visitors are the great historical sights such as the Houses of Parliament, parts of which are open to the public, world-famous clock Big Ben, and the imposing Westminster Abbey. Just over the Thames you can find the more modern charms of the London Eye, which offers spectacular views over the city.

The Tower of London is another of the city’s most popular tourist attractions. Next to Tower Bridge, here you can see the Crown Jewels and take a step closer to the more murky bits of London’s past.

Continuing the state and royal theme, parts of Buckingham Palace, London residence of the Queen, is open to the public (the Summer Opening of the State Rooms is from 31 July to 26 September 2004), while outside you can witness the changing of the guard. A short walk away, through pretty St James’s Park with its fairy-tale view from the central bridge, is Whitehall, the centre of government. You can’t walk past Number 10 Downing Street, home of the Prime Minister, but you can peer through the gates at the end of the street for a good view of the famous residence and its comings and goings.

The notable streets of London are tourist attractions in themselves, and few will leave without visiting shopping centre Oxford Street, theatre-lined Shaftesbury Avenue, dignified Piccadilly, flashy Piccadilly Circus, or the bookshop mecca of Charing Cross Road.

London is world-renowned for entertainment and culture, most visitors will wish to take in a play, musical or art gallery. Whatever your tastes, you’ll find London has a large amount to offer.

On our Tourist Attractions page we offer a run-down of some important London sights, while for those who want to get to know the city in a rush, we suggest a weekend itinerary.

London Nightlife

For a Friday or Saturday night out, head for Soho or Covent Garden, enjoy a restaurant meal (hunt out some English food, or try the international cuisine for which London is famous), and end the evening at a theatre, bar or nightclub, or simply enjoying the hugely intense buzz that is Soho at night. Packed with drunken young (and older) people on their week’s ‘big night out’, the area is chaotic, but fairly safe. Stay alert, don’t carry huge amounts of money, and never take one of the unlicensed ‘mini cabs’ that prowl the streets. Black cabs can be hard to come by, but waiting to hail one of these, or using one of the city’s decent nightbuses, is by far the best option.

Check Time Out magazine to decide your evening’s activity, as London has a wealth of excellent possibilities, but most are geared for specific tastes and you want to make sure you get the most from your night. There are too many diverse nightclubs to recommend one or two, but a glance at Time Out’s listings will help you avoid the expensive tourist traps.

Other good locations for a night on the tiles include Islington, Camden (alternative, live music and clubs) and Shoreditch (painfully hip restaurants and trendy bars and clubs).